- Griffin Swartzell
Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, Western Omelette’s owner and manager didn’t return our calls over a two-week period to talk to us about the significance of the occasion and history of the eatery. Party foul aside, we can infer plenty from its clear popularity across a wide demographic, from bikers to businessmen — and from a couple of meals we enjoyed inside the kitschy Southwestern-decor space.
Farmers Brothers coffee ($2.60) establishes a diner-norm tone, but both a breakfast quesadilla ($9.70) and huevos rancheros ($9.70) show a little more flair than typical renditions, each with a bright chorizo influence. The locally famous green chile earns its acclaim with sizable orange habanero bits suspended in the gravy-textured sauce, lending flavor, not just heat. A slopper ($9.90) takes a unique turn in that crisp french fries compose the base, not a bun, and bison meat’s available for $2 more; mine’s cooked beautifully med-rare. As is a 10-ounce ribeye ($16.20), cleanly flavored and dished with a couple eggs and soft-middled hash.