At the start of January 2018, Trivelli’s Hoagies
left behind their digs at 2819 N. Nevada Ave. to take up a role serving lunch at Tap Traders from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., every day but Sunday. It’s hard not to see the change as a downgrade, but optics aren’t always reality, and quick-service sandwiches might draw more lunch business to the taproom, which lacks good street visibility.
But whatever’s going on in the business office, the kitchen’s slipping up. We get a full cheesesteak hoagie ($13.10), which comes halved and packed way past capacity with thin-cut steak and onions. This sandwich is enormous, and I easily get two meals out of it. While the sweet onions are lovely and the bread’s nicely textured, the meat’s chewy and dry, begging for moisture and flavor — typically we expect peppers on a cheesesteak, but there are none here. Melted American cheese only helps a little. One redeeming factor: At least there’s beer on hand.