ongtime bottler Trinity
recently bought a crowler machine, selling 32-ounce “big-boy cans” in its taproom. We’re sorely tempted by a can of the brewery’s 10.5 percent ABV Devourer of Ears saison, but it’s lunch and we keep it simple, with already-beloved One Ear naked saison ($5) and Elektrick Cukumbahh ($6). The former’s still a crisp and complex brew with a little pepper. The latter’s a summer delight, contrasting prominent cuke flavor with mild sweetness and a clean, mineral finish. Don’t miss adorable taster glasses, which my friend affectionately dubs “fairy cups.” Food’s choice as well — we try a softshell crab sandwich ($14) with on-point shoestring sweet potato fries ($1 extra). It’s a Southern-fried delight, a whole crab in cornmeal batter with pickle-bright remoulade on the side, a perfect dip for sandwich and side alike. Also try the brie BLT ($13), which manages to rein in palate-dominating sweet chile, here an aioli, with thick, smoky bacon and decadent brie.