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Tito’s Burritos’ Puerto Rican fusion leans on sofrito

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GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
Few Griffins as there may be in town, it still throws me off my rhythm when Tito's Burritos co-owner Tito Bercedoni recognizes me as an Indy writer, though we’ve never met before (though I don’t get any freebies or discounts out of it — no conflict of interest here). He’s mighty affable as we order arroz con pollo y habichuelas ($7.99), beef empanadas ($5.99) and a rice bowl ($6.99) for a supper at FH Beerworks, formerly Fieldhouse Brewing Company. Given the prices, all portions are plenty sizable. The rice bowl’s beans, basmati rice, ground beef and fried-crispy potato shreds blend well, topped with cilantro and tomatoes, seasoned nicely with Puerto Rican seasoning standard sofrito. The same sofrito-savory beef fills fried-flaky empanadas, though much saltier. For the arroz con pollo, the habichuelas (pinto beans) and rice do fine, but the chicken’s painfully salty. Further, every dish has sofrito as a major flavor player, and it’s a bit samey over three dishes — go rice bowl for maximum textural variation.

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