Things have been busy at this massive Briargate eatery. Chef Gerry Castro’s gone, replaced by executive chef Ben Hoffer and executive sous chef Hunter Huffman. We target brunch on our visit. The house beermosa, made with Odell Brewing Co.’s Drumroll APA, is called a Manmosa ($6/pint), and while the fresh OJ and hops play nice, the price is off-putting and the Spike TV-inflected name doesn’t jive with the farm-to-table vibe.
Bougie biscuits and gravy ($15), four hearty cheddar drop biscuits with bacon gravy and a sunny side up egg, satisfy, with smoke, black pepper and cheddar leading. For a huge plate, get smoked chicken chilaquiles ($15). The meat’s nicely tender, smoky and spicy, and between the house tortillas, roasted tomatillo, black beans, queso fresco, avocado chunks, and sunny egg, it’s filling and delicious. We miss the mindblowing moments that defined our first visits to TILL, but as with then, our only real complaint is pricey beer.