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The Singapore chicken sings at Fortune Dragon

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The go-to, Mongolian beef, arrives in a mild brown sauce, a mound of thin-sliced beef with bell peppers and onions. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • The go-to, Mongolian beef, arrives in a mild brown sauce, a mound of thin-sliced beef with bell peppers and onions.

Fortune Dragon, 280 E. U.S. Hwy. 24, Woodland Park, 687-8883, See Facebook

Outside and inside, Fortune Dragon doesn’t look like much. The stucco-and-red-tile-roof exterior feels like a time capsule, an untouched slice of a bygone decade. Inside, it’s spare and simple — light on, if not free of, Buddhas and dragons. The menu comes loaded with a selection of regional Chinese dishes, from which we pick a go-to and something new to us.

The go-to, Mongolian beef, arrives in a mild brown sauce, a mound of thin-sliced beef with bell peppers and onions. The meat’s tender, and those veggies are just barely cooked, a lovely doneness all around for our money. The new dish, Singapore chicken, sees meat in a sauce we’d describe as warming rather than spicy, mixed with bell peppers, zucchini, mushrooms and onion, all cut into half-inch cubes and cooked to perfection. Both dishes arrive a little oily, but we’re delighted by flavors and portions.

More than anything, Fortune Dragon’s chef has a keen sense of time and temperature, and we’re happy with the wok hay on both dishes. Well done. 



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