Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

The Rolling Diner's junk bowl is for the hungry and hung-over

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GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
The Rolling Diner’s signature junk bowl ($8) is, to be succinct, biscuits and gravy with everything. Atop a pair of fluffy biscuits, diners get two sausage patties, crisp hash brown patties, bacon strips and eggs, either scrambled or fried. We go fried, letting the yolk thicken the thin-but-otherwise-fine gravy and mellow the way-salty sausage patties. It’s strictly for the very hungry or the very hung-over. More in the realm of reason, we try the special green chile fries ($4). Expect toothsome spiral-cut fries and soupy-thin tomato-endowed green chile — good, but not great.

But we’re drawn to the pie waffles, which we’re told are waffle sticks with a batter that crisps up like pastry crust while keeping a tender interior. A half-order of on-special lemon poppyseed pie waffles ($4) seems more like an oily churro sans exterior crunch. The center’s mush, but the lemon drizzle atop whipped cream adds some redeeming citrus. It’s functional diner food.

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