For the first time in many years, I stopped by the Hungry Bear for breakfast and was seated without waiting in line. Improbable as it may seem, the customer flow here seems wholly reasonable at 8 a.m. on a Saturday in December. It’s nowhere near the madhouse I remember from childhood visits. But, good news, the pancakes still rule without nostalgia as a crutch. I get a stack of three blueberry buckwheat pancakes ($8.40) on my server’s advice. They’re not 100 percent buckwheat flour, that’s for sure, but they’re buttery and substantial.
A four-egg cheese omelet ($5.95, plus $1.95 each for sausage and green chile) comes with two equally delicious buttermilk cakes. The eggs are cooked in drawn butter, according to their website, but it isn’t overly rich for that. Sausage crumbles do fine, and while the green chile resembles minced green chilies, that’s not a problem. It’s a wet plate, but it’s no less filling or enjoyable because of it.