Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

The Bearded Lady takes its localvore offerings on the road

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MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
Parked in the wide courtyard one door away from The Jailhouse, where we happen to catch a lively free concert this Saturday afternoon, The Bearded Lady (410 E. Main St., Buena Vista), like Seasons Café in Salida, actively supports local growers; there’s even a map at the food truck’s order window that shows 14 different producers’ locations. We opt to mix and match four street tacos and empanadas for $12, from a list of nine, and we bat two likes and two loves. For the OK but unmemorable, the bacon cheeseburger empanada, like the jalapeño popper option, comes in a nicely composed and fried dough purse, but its ground beef-bacon-cheddar filling could use more seasoning — we add hot sauce and garnishes from the service counter rail to compensate. But the popper’s a brilliant, creamy superstar with cream cheese, and Jumpin’ Good chèvre from BV, mitigating the mild heat of the pepper, plus bacon — I could punish these all day long. For tacos, the chicken mole sports generous pulled meat, with the typical anise essence but not much cacao influence. They’re decent, but far eclipsed by the kick-ass Portobello & Rajas taco, with grilled shrooms, creamy poblano and onion hash and mashed fingerling potato pieces with a finishing jalapeño crema. It all melds gloriously, making me think of the aftertaste of a garnish-loaded baked potato bite, in the best way.

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