- Griffin Swartzell
Mobile business, 719-646-8016
This food truck, a converted ambulance, has done a hell of a branding job. Its logo incorporates a fork, spoon and knife in white on a blue star of life, a great nod to emergency medical services semiotics. TBR and head chef Steven Richardson have been turning out barbecue and soul food for five months when we find them.
We get two combo plates, one with catfish and one with pork ribs. The fish comes in a crisp cornmeal batter that’s got ample pepper, big fish flavor, moisture to spare and enough salt to drown whatever other seasonings went into it. While those ribs lack the pink smoke ring, they’re tender as can be and covered with a sauce that goes from sweet to tangy to smoky. Each comes with two sides: The mac and cheese sees cooked-to-mush noodles in a rich, cheesy sauce; the dirty rice has so much salt and black pepper that we only get a bare celery hint on each bite; the cole slaw has a great tang and crunch, and sweet baked beans scan as canned.
But the sweet potato pie, a rare thing on the menu in summer months, I’d put on my own Thanksgiving table. It’s not too sweet, perfectly spiced and beautifully smooth on a crisp pastry crust.