Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Sushi Ato still appears at the top of its game

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MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper

12245 Voyager Pkwy., #148, 719-694-8936, sushiato-cs.com

My colleague Griffin Swartzell was quite fond of Sushi Ato after his visit a few years ago, and I’m glad I finally made a stop through to find my whole experience similar to his — which is to say the spot seems to have nailed the often elusive element of consistency.

It’s difficult to differentiate sushi places based on all the classic offerings, but Sushi Ato feels a notch above most spots for freshness, a catch-all word in this context that fails to fully convey the subtlety of everything from the perfect tempura battering to dumpling crispness to seasoning and flash-firing on my Seared Cajun Tuna plate ($17) turned bento box ($6 upcharge), a nice menu suggestion to fully fortify a big meal for one or light bite for two.

Starring: dry-rubbed and citrus-hit slices of gorgeously pink sashimi tuna for dipping into a light shoyu ponzu sauce; the cuisine-fusion doesn’t feel or taste gimmicky at all. All plates already come with a starter of miso soup and a small house salad, plus a mound of rice and a couple fried gyoza, but the bento conversion adds four basic California Roll pieces, a trio of simple tuna rolls and a small stack of shrimp and veggie tempura — a good deal for the money.



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