- Griffin Swartzell
When last we visited the Stagecoach, we had some strong words about high prices and inconsistent quality. But we're told the former chef and bar manager are both out and the kitchen's now run by owner Paul Jakubczyk of PJ's Bistro. At a dinner visit, we find the menu has grown cheaper and more tourist-focused.
We opt for the advertised Coach burger meal ($9/single-patty), available with one to three patties. It recalls a Drifter's combo with more but worse fries. Credit given, the burger bears zippy pickles. Caramelized onions taste like they've had molasses added, such is their sweetness and darkness. The Rocky Mountain fish and chips ($15) sees fried trout perched upon yet more of the fast-food shoestring fries, cold and grown rapidly limp on the plate. The trout has a notable fishy taste, breaded and fried skin-on. While the skin lacks crispness, it's no obstacle. The meat's tender and the batter adds plenty of crunch.