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Sosa’s Pupuseria is polished and perfected

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Pupusas are like extra-thick stuffed corn tortillas. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • Pupusas are like extra-thick stuffed corn tortillas.
We like to see a focused menu — not too many items, all polished and perfected. Sosa’s Pupuseria does just that, churning out diverse pupusas for $2.75 each. Pupusas are like extra-thick stuffed corn tortillas, Salvadoran in origin though popular also in Honduras, where owner Isaac Sosa hails from. Here, they come with a cabbage-onion-carrot salad heavily flavored with oregano, plus a non-spicy tomato salsa typical of the region.

We try chicharrón, zucchini, mushroom, and loroco flower, all with plentiful, melty Monterey and Mozzerella cheeses. Loroco flower tastes like lilacs smell, green and full of pollen. It’s different and pleasant. Neither chicharrón nor see-through-thin zucchini contribute much, but our mushroom pupusas pack a meaty punch. Carne asada fries ($7.99) come grease-soaked but crisp enough to stand up under toothsome Ranch Foods Direct beef. We enjoy the house-made horchata ($2) for its mighty cinnamon flavor.

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