- Matthew Schniper
- Codornices at El Ranchito 2.
Seeking something unusual, I order codornices ($9.99) before bothering to translate on my phone. Turns out it’s quail, fried to an oily, tough leather on the outside. Not unlike eating Chinese duck, bits of dark meat must be worked off small bones, laboriously, but patience pays off with a salty punch of protein, to be blended with basic rice and beans or folded between aromatic corn tortillas with avocado and queso garnishes. House horchata ($2.99) excels, non-synthetic-tasting or overly sweet, huge with cinnamon.