Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Short Stop Deluxe Burgers takes on a humble job

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CRAIG LEMLEY
  • Craig Lemley
Short Stop feels like a chain. That used to be true: In 1994, a year after the Springs arm of this Texas chain opened, the parent company was sold and disbanded, part of the aftermath of a trademark infringement case from 1992. But owner Ted Vong soldiered on, keeping the Short Stop name and burgers going for the last 27 years. But when locals like Drifters have elevated fast-food burgers from utility food to legitimately desirable eats, how does this local standby hold up?

We get a cheeseburger, regular-sized fries, and regular-sized vanilla milkshake for $8 after tax, a pretty reasonable price. The shake tastes smooth but artificial, thick enough in texture. Fries come out limp, even when hot, fast-food shoestring thin and desperate for a little more time to crisp up. As for the burger, it’s indistinguishable from anything sold by the global fast food chain gang. Short Stop allows McD’s fans to get exactly what they want and buy local. It’s an ignoble job, but it’s one we’re still happy someone took.

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