There’s a certain joy to the texture of sweet potato glass noodles that compose a plate of Korean japchae. Slick from sesame oil — milder in flavor here than many versions — they’re tough to grab with chopsticks, but squid-like in your mouth, popping under bites with a starchy snap. Bits of sweet bulgogi highlight Shin Sa Dong
's fine rendition, extra enjoyable interspersed with bites of banchan. Another textural delight: toasted, slightly crunchy and caramelized rice at the bottom of a stone bowl in the bibimbap. Shin Sa Dong serves theirs with a side squirt bottle of awesome house gochujang (chile pepper sauce), which we use heavily as it’s got an intoxicating combo of sweet, spicy and faintly sour, which heightens all the flavors of other ingredients, including egg, bulgogi slivers, green onions, carrot threads and sesame-rich bean sprouts. Attentive service stands out too at this longstanding eatery, set in a shopping complex with several other Korean businesses, including an Asian grocery.