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Biggi’s owner/chef Bianca Fortune grew up in Bavaria and it’s easy to detect her charming German accent after I have downed a delicious German currywurst and Zigeunerschnitzel. We’re at Black Forest Brewing, where from our tasting paddle the malty Rye Not Roggen Roggenbier (a Bavarian brew, fittingly) indeed pairs best with the bites (adding its own faint rye bit), though a jalapeño cream ale and R&R Vanilla Coffee Porter also leave us quite content.
Fortune cooks her grandmother’s recipes, pounding her own pork cutlets for schnitzel renditions and slow-cooking her lively tomato curry sauces, using sausages from Denver’s boutique Continental Sausage. Our currywurst (a Northern German creation, now universal), sliced into thick coins and covered in the tangy curry ketchup, pops with extra acidity from excellent side potato salad fortified with chicken stock, laced with bacon essence and not heavy on vinegar.
This style of schnitzel saucing adds sautéed onions and peppers to the tomato sauce for a little veg edge, and the cutlet’s juicy under crisp, even breading that does hold on to some excess deep fryer oil. But a sweet-tinged, dill-flecked, vinegary cucumber salad lightens that heaviness.