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Sandy’s defies roadhouse expectations with good, humble eats

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Sandy’s Burger bears two patties, cheese, a house relish sauce and mayo. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Sandy’s Burger bears two patties, cheese, a house relish sauce and mayo.

Sandy’s Restaurant
6940 Space Village Ave., 651-0596, see Facebook page

This little yellow building reads roadhouse from the moment it comes into view, and it would not seem odd to see the parking lot packed with hogs and choppers. But when we visit, we’re surrounded by retirees as we order up a big plate of huevos rancheros. We get our three eggs over easy, and they arrive just right, drooling yolk into a mound of warm green chile and cool salsa.

The flavor of the green chiles doesn’t pop over the savoriness of the chile, but there’s a whisper of heat at the end. Cheesy refried beans bulk out the generously portioned plate. No less substantial, the Sandy’s Burger bears two patties, cheese, a house relish sauce and mayo. Overall, it’s a good diner burger, with a tomato-y relish, patties with a good crust and a properly grilled bun.

For the amount of stuff on it, we’re impressed that it doesn’t fall apart. Side beer battered fries rate fine, and a house salad dressed in house-made ranch tastes bright, with buttermilk tartness.



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