- Matthew Schniper
- Bonefish Grill
5102 N. Nevada Ave., 598-0826, bonefishgrill.com
When I first visited Bonefish three years ago, just after its location opened here, I conceded it was serving some of the best, if not the best, seafood in the city. I'd had an epic Chilean sea bass with chimichurri in particular, and that's what I sought to relive on this visit, to see if the experience holds up. It doesn't.
The chimichurri has become an "herb pesto" and doesn't shine as bright. The fish portion for $28.90 feels skinny and cooked a touch drier than optimal, with a skimpy seasonal vegetable side. It's still good, but not great. Ditto on grilled lamb chops for $20.90, which are past a perfect med-rare with a tangy balsamic demi-glace. And the booze is rather thin in the Fresh Watermelon Icicle Aphrodisiac Martini ($8.20), which fails to arouse with house-infused cucumber vodka, sour mix and a frozen watermelon hunk. I'd previously regarded Bonefish as a chain above — now it feels like just feels like another corporate fish in the sea. — Matthew Schniper
- Bryce Crawford
- Montague's Coffee House
Montague's Coffee House
1019 S. Tejon St., 520-0672
Montague's has been successfully trading on its closely arranged Victorian furniture and cozy environment for years now, and though you see the occasional Craigslist posting for the sale of the business, it appears to be in the same good health as always. A recent visit brings a sampling of the rotating soups and quiches, not to mention a chance to sink into some of the best living-room furniture this side of Jake Jabs.
A bowl of pumpkin-tomato soup comes with a beef and cheddar sandwich ($9.50). The soup is fantastic, thick and deeply flavored, and the sandwich does fine if you don't mind a slice of cold cheddar and a skinny pile of roast beef. Dip one into the other and find happiness. The broccoli-cheddar quiche ($9.25) could use a more distinct crust, and three strawberries plus a bit of orange makes for an underwhelming side, but the thick, meaty bites of creamy egg are delicious. — Bryce Crawford
- Bryce Crawford
- Salsa Latina
28 E. Rio Grande St., 328-1513, salsalatinas.com
As much as they're worthy of our continued attention, devotion and drunken text messages, one cannot constantly write about Salsa Latina's pork-avocado burritos and tacos. It begins to make other entrées in this cousin to El Taco Rey jealous, and you might start to think we eat, think and talk about nothing else.
So we turn to the house horchata ($2.49), ladled into a cup for us from a cashier-side bucket, as well as the nachos ($7.49) and the No. 5 plate: three tacos with beans and rice. If you go with the hard shells ($8.49), you'll find they're pretty standard-issue, filled with beef, lettuce and shredded cheese. The refried beans are fabulously flavorful, but the rice is a sort of wet, soggy affair that my wife likes better than me. The monochromatic nachos don't look like much — chips, layered beans, beef and some guacamole — but they're all soaked in a killer green chili. — Bryce Crawford