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Rong Cheng Chinese is "New York style," whatever that means

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A spicy Singapore Mei Fun. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • A spicy Singapore Mei Fun.
Though Rong Cheng’s been around and owned by the same family for 18 years, it’s my first visit, and I start by asking what distinguishes them from other Chinese spots here. An employee responds: “We’re New York style.” Hoping for details, perhaps insight into the East vs. West coast U.S. interpretations, I ask,“What does that mean?” She replies: “It’s better.” Alrighty then. I request a recommendation from the exhaustive menu, and get the Singapore Mei Fun ($9.95), spicy, to go.

Value wise, it’s two meals worth of food, so great. It incorporates thin-sliced, chewy, potent pork (char siu) as well as soft small shrimp and egg bits, also nice, plus colorful dark cabbage zucchini and carrot threads. But what really defines the dish, also eaten widely in China and Hong Kong, is its golden curry powder, which gives the gossamer, oily noodles a chalky coating. Turmeric leads the fine flavor. Mine’s not very spicy, but it’s easily enjoyable in its simplicity.

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