Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Roll Up Food Truck shows ambition and improvement in the fryolated arts


Bryce Dillingham and crew have been busy. Since Roll Up Food Truck opened in January of 2017, they’ve bought a much bigger trailer and stepped away from an all-egg roll menu for a wider embrace of the fryolated arts. Now they’re looking for a good spot for a brick-and-mortar eatery, having scuttled plans for the Fountain Valley Shopping Center. When we visit, outside the Fountain Walmart, the menu’s limited, so we get carnitas fries ($8) and pepperoni pizza rolls ($6). The former’s admittedly hard to screw up, a pile of tender pork atop cooked-crunchy fast food-style fries, under a layer of onions, sour cream, cotija cheese and cilantro. The pork could use a bigger seasoning punch, and side lime wedges would do wonders, too, but the cumin-forward, low-spice side salsa’s nice. As for the pizza-packed egg rolls, the exterior’s not oil-logged despite the fatty mix of cheese and pepperoni within. Oregano-leading marinara on the side helps balance the rich fillings. Roll Up’s decidedly improved since we last dined.

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