Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Roll Up Food Truck shows ambition and improvement in the fryolated arts

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Bryce Dillingham and crew have been busy. Since Roll Up Food Truck opened in January of 2017, they’ve bought a much bigger trailer and stepped away from an all-egg roll menu for a wider embrace of the fryolated arts. Now they’re looking for a good spot for a brick-and-mortar eatery, having scuttled plans for the Fountain Valley Shopping Center. When we visit, outside the Fountain Walmart, the menu’s limited, so we get carnitas fries ($8) and pepperoni pizza rolls ($6). The former’s admittedly hard to screw up, a pile of tender pork atop cooked-crunchy fast food-style fries, under a layer of onions, sour cream, cotija cheese and cilantro. The pork could use a bigger seasoning punch, and side lime wedges would do wonders, too, but the cumin-forward, low-spice side salsa’s nice. As for the pizza-packed egg rolls, the exterior’s not oil-logged despite the fatty mix of cheese and pepperoni within. Oregano-leading marinara on the side helps balance the rich fillings. Roll Up’s decidedly improved since we last dined.

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