- Griffin Swartzell
- Roasted Jalapeño offers many choices, sound by our measure.
There’s a menu full of evidence to support that: a dozen combo plates, half-a-dozen appetizers, plus burritos, more plates, tacos and desserts. She and husband/co-owner/chef Miguel Navarro, son of the owners of Aurora, Colorado’s Las Hadas, have been operating the truck since August 2017. They run it along with Odorowski’s mom, Diane Marr.
Credit first and foremost, Odorowski and Navarro post their weekly schedule on Facebook, which makes it a breeze to track the truck down. (May all food trucks that do so be praised forevermore.) We first catch them at Red Leg Brewing Company, one of a few stops the truck makes outside its home territory in the Peyton/Falcon/northeastern Springs area.
On that first visit, we opt for fish tacos made with swai, a species of shark catfish farmed in Southeast Asia. The fish gets plenty of flavor, and though it ends up bar-snack salty on corn tortillas, guacamole and spicy salsa rein it in. We’re also sold on the crumbly-crisp adovada pork, which we get as a plate with refried pinto beans, rice, gorgeous grilled onions and a rich, tomato-red green chile sauce. The adovada’s got a good depth of flavor to it; we’re pretty hooked, especially with a pint of Red Leg’s Belgian pale ale on hand to cut richness with hops and add complexity with big Belgian yeast esters.
Unfortunately, after we order, it turns out their stock of fried ice cream has melted, so we’re comped an equivalent value in crisp churros, tossed in cinnamon sugar and filled with rich Bavarian cream.
On second visit, at Goat Patch Brewing, we start with pork tamales smothered in red and green chile. They’re way more masa than meat, but they’re seasoned well and relatively cheap ($2 each in husk, $2.50 smothered) in a rich, spicy sauce. We’re happy also with the burrito supreme, a big ol’ burrito with choice of filling served smothered in green chile with lettuce, cheese, sour cream and guac. We try chicken and bean, and we’re content with both mushy beans and tender, flavorful meat.
But the winner of the night is Navarro’s posole. It’s rich red, full of tender meat and hominy. On the side, diners get lime wedges, cabbage and diced white onion. There’s a heat, but nothing too intense, though a side cup of intensely spicy salsa ratchets things up fast, making me sweat. I’m a little bit in love with this rich soup. We do find a few chunks of bone among the tender bits of meat, so be aware, but they’re big enough to be hard to swallow accidentally.
Navarro says he’s used to making white posole, truer to his family’s recipes from Colima, on Mexico’s Pacific coast. But local demand was for the bright red stuff, more typical of northern Mexico and the Southwest — he chose to adjust, though he still makes white posole at home.
We finish our meal with long-awaited fried ice cream, served in a fried flour tortilla bowl with carnival-appropriate quantities of whipped cream and strawberry and chocolate syrups, all detractors from the cinnamon-cornflake-vanilla ice cream heart of the dish. It’s not our favorite, but on this truck’s menu, there’s plenty of other fine choices.