Coworkers keep raving about the value of Red Gravy’s lunch special, offering a generous half serving of pasta plus soup or salad for $10. But it’s the need for a late dinner that instead finds us splurging for a $23 ravioli, the evening’s special. The firm, house-made pasta pillows this night feature portobello mushroom duxelles — shallot, butter and herb seasoned caps, sweated with Marsala wine — packed in with both goat and Grana Padano cheese, finished with more ‘shroom and brown butter sauce. Adjectives: earthy, creamy, rich, lavish, sexy, stupid-good. Side arugula with pine nuts, preserved lemons and sherry-truffle vinaigrette mixes in beautifully, adding highlighting acids, and both citrus and pepper punch. Drink pairing: the Spring 44 vodka Filthy Dirty Martini ($10), now served down to add volume says chef Eric Brenner. Balsamic vinegar and olive juice again add acid to enhance the food. Only miss: mine’s minus promised blue cheese-stuffed olives.