I have beef with Potato Potato
, and not the kind that tops their signature poutine with steak. On a recent visit, I order smoked salmon poutine ($11), fries topped with honey smoked salmon, capers, red onions and a creamy dill sauce. If that sounds like a killer way to top a bagel, it is, and it’s pretty good on hot and crispy fries, too. Owner Kevin Johnson has even salted his fries less than usual, which keeps the already-salty salmon and capers from overwhelming. I’d dig a hint more red onion for its refreshing bite, but this plate’s plenty satisfying. So what’s my issue? The dish isn’t poutine — it’s loaded fries, but there’s no gravy and no fry-heat-softened gooey and chewy cheese curds, therefore, it is not the classic French-Canadian snack (though Potato Potato does proper poutine, too). Mr. Johnson should know that morphological shenanigans like this are the kind that have led some poor souls to think hot dogs and tacos are sandwiches. Clearly, we’ll need to discuss this over more fries.