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Porkman’s Pit does good meat, learns the dos and don'ts of cheese

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GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
Neon orange nacho cheese has a place in this world, and in that place it is a wonder. Where it’s easy for elevated nacho plates to produce an undesirable brick of cheese here and there, the snack bar stuff guarantees even coverage. It has a home atop tortilla chips and maybe french fries. But thanks to Porkman’s Pit, we now know it doesn’t belong in a porkito ($7), the food truck’s signature pulled pork burrito stuffed with meat, cole slaw and pickled jalapeño slices. That’s a shame; every other component works. The pork’s plenty tender. The slaw’s crisp and creamy. And the pickled peppers, seeded, add flavor and acidic brightness without any real scorch to speak of. But that heavy, fatty, salty cheese mutes everything else going on in the burrito. Fortunately, we’re told they’ve changed it up since our visit, switching to regular cheese. As a side, we pick up potato salad ($3), not knowing it’s bought pre-made, though the portion’s good for the price.

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