Opened in early June, Peak BBQ
consists of a sales shack, a smoking rig, outdoor seating, a tiny all-acoustic stage, and a mechanical bull. Owners Tina and Grant Howell are from Texas, just outside of Dallas. But, surprising for Texas barbecue, we’re not super impressed by the brisket. Our two meat combo ($14.50, with two sides) bears three slabs of the stuff, which bears a pretty pink smoke ring, but the meat’s chewy. The connective tissues need more time to melt into rapturous goodness. We’re happy with the taste of the oak-smoked meat, and the Kansas-style sweet sauce does fine.
It’s the house meatballs that redeem the truck. Made from Grant’s secret seasoning mix, the all-beef balls chew tender, juicy and herbaceous, thoroughly satisfying. For sides, house-made slaw does fine. I’m less than sweet on brown sugar in beans, but they’re substantial and cooked well.