At this long-standing restaurant, dubbed the best Italian food in Colorado by MSN Lifestyle in 2017
, customers can expect to pay $15 or more for a dinner entrée. But Paravicini’s
lunch menu’s rich with $9 specials, a mercy for skinny billfolds. The Tonio’s Rigatoni ($9), a simple dish of pasta with cream sauce, chicken, tomatoes, basil and mozzarella, is the kind of thing that depends on brilliant freshness to pop. And the day we order it, it’s just safe. So’s the side Caesar salad ($1.95).
But wine’s a wonder, and I ask for pairing suggestions — Chardonnay or Moscato for white, or a Cavit pinot noir ($8/glass) for red (something of a stylistic heterodoxy, but diner preference always merits consideration). I go with the latter and get a wine that’s fruity but not terribly sweet, with substantial tannins and woody flavor. The pasta dish transmutes it into something savory and rich, making lunch far more interesting.