Redemption tastes good. It’s been four years since my last stop here, and that first visit left us wanting in several regards. But this time through, we find happiness in both our dishes, each large enough for a second meal at home later, making prices an even better value.

The eggplant with garlic sauce ($9.25) isn’t overtly garlicky, but it’s clear some has helped flavor a thick brown sauce, dark and a little salty from soy influence, and faintly tart. Eggplant strips are soft and not bitter, intermixed with crunchy water chestnuts and carrot slivers and biting green onion strands. A chicken panang curry ($9.55) arrives at a respectable American hot sans any spice-level request, building over bites of green bells, onions, carrot and chicken pieces bathed in a rich, highly peanut-infused coconut broth, scantly sweet. Big portions of steamed and fried rice arrive in pyramid shapes (from an overturned mold), a nice touch toward elegance.