- Matthew Schniper
Location Details New China Kitchen II
Though our meal’s not bad, I’d elect a word like “omnipresent” to describe eats that taste like every other affordable take-out-type spot staged with Chinese zodiac placemats and traditional waterfall art above burgundy floral-print booths. Our combination chow fun features the typical wide rice noodles, somehow oily and dry at once, bland but for thin oyster sauce essence and mushy meat flavorings. The mu-shu chicken (also $10.55) proves more rewarding with its sweet hoisin glazing over a wet tangle of cabbage, mushroom, green onion and carrot slivers loaded into flour “pancakes” (basically Mexican tortillas) to be chomped like drippy tacos.