Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

NaO’s Foodbus needs tutoring but shows promise


  • Griffin Swatzell
Nao's Foodbus, a converted school bus charms us with whimsy. But our sandwiches, with scholastic monikers, need tutoring. We try a vegan Health Class ($9), which piles “superfood” greens (mostly baby chard) sautéed in garlic on onions, sprouts, mushrooms, bell pepper and avocado, between toasted wheat and seed bread smeared with cashew cream spread. It’s desperate for salt to pop. Moist greens disintegrate the bread and bear no garlic taste. Tempeh, $2 extra, adds little flavor.

The Science Project ($11) lives up to its name, a mash-up of a few meaty sandwiches — notably a Reuben and a French dip, though there’s pulled pork and bacon too. Mustard and sauerkraut taste fine, as does the rosemary jus, but we can’t find the fried pickles by flavor or texture. It’s an “all the tasty things” sandwich, hold the focus. What these two items really need to make the grade are a little seasoning and simplifying.

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