Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Nacos Tacos is easy to miss, but shouldn't be

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A naco torta is enough for two servings. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • A naco torta is enough for two servings.
Located near the Citadel Crossing shopping center in a pockmarked parking lot shared with Kelly O’Brian’s Sports Bar, this 9-year-old restaurant is easy to miss. The tiny dining room hosts a large, pictorial hanging menu and smaller menus offering different info that cover the back wall of the dining room.

But while the spot needs design help, the kitchen seems to be doing pretty well. We pick the naco torta ($7.50), which comes with sausage, ham, breaded beef, a pork chop and plenty of melty white cheese (though a call provides no answers as to what type). Why yes, this is a rich, meaty sandwich, destined to make any cardiologist or vegan wilt in horror. And while the tomato, onion, avocado and pickled jalapeños brighten the bite, it’s only by degrees. This sandwich stands unrepentantly smoky and heavy, a quality gut bomb on a tender bolillo roll, offering a comfortable two servings.

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