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Mateo's rides cheesesteak up and down the Front Range

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Mateo's green chili cheesesteak - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Mateo's green chili cheesesteak
Matthew Spain has been in the food business for some time now, having run a deli at the Phil Long Ford dealership from 2009 to 2012, and a food tent for outdoor events starting in 2010. In 2013, he launched a food truck, Mateo's (Mobile business, 287-1989, facebook.com/mycheesesteak) anchored on a Philly cheesesteak recipe taught to him by a customer back in his deli days. He’s taken that sandwich and ridden it up and down the Front Range over the intervening years. We find his truck at the Acacia Park community market, which runs Thursdays through Aug. 31 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

We opt for the green chili cheesesteak ($9), which drops typical peppers and onions in favor of Pueblo-grown Vigil Farms chilies. It’s one of those sandwiches that sticks with you, gastronomically and mentally. The bread’s crusty outside and tender inside — we’re skeptical as he toasts the outside of the baguette rather than the inside, but we can’t dispute the results. Fiery hot peppers do beautiful things with tender meat and American cheese for a savory, satisfying tube of East-Coast-meets-Southwest, though a pinch more salt would not go amiss.

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