It’s cold inside, so I keep my coat on. I inquire whose coffee’s served: “It’s just Folgers.” Gotcha; reset expectations for more diner than the craft spot it initially opened as in late 2014 in the legacy Dutch Kitchen spot. Which isn’t to say food’s not homemade. It’s just there’s one server and one cook for 40 seats, so I see a big party get turned away (during off-season months!) so as not to overwhelm said cook and compromise service at other potential tables. I’m the sole diner around this lunch time, but the server says the place was packed at breakfast. I stare at kitschy items on a long shelf on wood paneled walls, like a Hank Williams print and an odd sign about flying monkeys (ah, Manitou), while forking into a heap of brightly seasoned, oily, bacon-flecked potatoes and a sausage-cheddar quiche. It’s more compact and pie-slice-like than most, dense with a sogged bottom crust. The sausage speaks mild, but the cheese’s sharpness stands out, accented by raw green onions for big bite; I’m content.