Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Kabob Kaboose puts grilled thrills on a stick

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GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
Owner Corey Council opened Kabob Kaboose food truck in December 2017, drawing on a long history of making crazy kebabs for family gatherings. Everything comes on a stick, including chicken and waffles we remember fondly from April’s Small Business Week Food Truck Cook-Off. We skip it for items we haven’t had, starting with a steak kebab ($9). It’s what we are conditioned to expect from a kebab — meat, veggies and sauce, here over herbed rice. Tender, juicy steak makes good friends with the sweet-spicy-tangy honey-Sriracha sauce that borderline-candies bits of bell pepper. For those who cannot grill but crave its bounties, this kebab will certainly do. Asian zing rolls ($8) are three fried egg rolls halved, skewered and served over rice. Unfortunately, the ground beef filling’s under-seasoned, leaning heavily on an accompanying homemade “Pao sauce” — sesame seeds, ginger, sesame oil, soy sauce and red pepper — for flavor. They aren’t terrible, but it’s the grill that thrills here.

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