, a ‘50s soda-jerk-inspired restaurant is a sister spot to Eagle River, Wisconsin’s Soda Pops, run by Jason and Errol Meinholz. We skip the wall of glass-bottle sodas for a raspberry phosphate soda ($2.50), a pre-Depression soda jerk favorite of soda water, syrup and acid phosphate for tartness. Ours is near-pure sweetness with a little tongue tingle; we’ll pass for a Bulleit bourbon banana cream pie ($8.50), a decadent, boozy shake made with Wisconsin’s Chocolate Shoppe vanilla ice cream. The flavors dance marvelously together. A likable cranberry meatball sandwich ($8.95) bears slightly chewy beef meatballs cooked in a quality meatloaf glaze-like cranberry-sauerkraut-ketchup-brown sugar mix. The soda “jerk” chicken ($9.95) is a functional chicken patty in sauce that hits the expected heat and seasoning notes but tastes like barbecue sauce for its sweetness. Side sweet potato fries, $2 extra, rate fine, but skip floppy, insipid french fries, $1 extra, for crisp house potato chips.