Being near The Broadmoor and in the hands of longtime Penrose Room Maître D’ Joseph Freyre, Joseph’s lives up to the “Fine Dining” part of its name. Blue and yellow linens brighten a high-ceilinged, dapper dining room. The vibe’s a bit formal, but Freyre greets me with a disarming smile and easy warmth.

Joseph’s seafood-dominant lunch menu reads more classical and clubhouse-ish than contemporary or high-end experimental. A warm, crispy dinner roll with butter arrives ahead of my Surf & Turf salad ($14.99), not really a salad as much as an upturned cup of dried cranberry- and toasted almond-flecked quinoa alongside a tri-meat skewer glazed with just enough sweet chili mango sauce. A scallop cuts perfectly plump and gooey, two prawns are ideally soft too, and the core of a beef tenderloin strip blushes pink. Bell peppers and onions add earth and bite before the sauce chimes in.