This will not be our last visit to Joey’s Pizza
— on the menu there’s a pizza called the Long Island Clam Digger, which features chopped clams, garlic, bacon, provolone, basil and Parmesan. It’s something along the lines of the signature ‘za of Frank Pepe’s in New Haven, Connecticut, recently featured on David Chang’s Netflix show, Ugly Delicious
. But instead of getting it, we split a signature pollo fresca ($21.99/18-inch). The crust’s a pleasant thinness, though a little blond underneath, leading to some structural failures as a few slices are torn apart by the provolone atop. It’s topped with breaded chicken, pure kids’ sports team pizza party stuff, but with tomato, garlic and basil, the taste’s nice, and reducing the tomato sauce to compensate for a garlic oil drizzle’s good decision-making. We’re happy overall, throwing in bottles of Bristol Brewing Company’s Yellow Kite pils and Sam Adams Boston lager for $3.50 apiece. Bellies full, we shall dream of clam pizza, wondering at what could have been.