t’s been around a year and a half
since we last visited Indus Modern Kitchen
and there’s a couple new elements I notice. First: a new Indian grocery market just doors down where the owners now sell everything from basmati rice to pre-made sauces. Second: Prices have increased (one entrée/side, $7.99; two, $10.99; or three, $14.99), so by the time I add garlic naan ($2.99) and a cold house chai ($3.99) to my two-entrée lunch, I’m at nearly 20 bones. At least leftovers provide me a second meal and everything remains health-minded and delicious. Indus’ naan is easily the finest I’ve had in town, thin and stretchy with a little tandoori oven char. Saag paneer’s still rich with spinach and broccoli purée plus homemade cheese chunks, all beautifully spiced. Coconut (Red Bird) chicken curry shows off tender stewed meat in a thin broth, and house chutneys amplify both dishes, especially a fabulous, seriously spicy Kashmiri chile sauce spiked also with ginger and garlic, slightly sweetened by caramelized onions.