What do we call this 3-year-old eatery? An overhead sign says only “Korean Restaurant” under Hangul lettering. Both website and receipt call it “Jinkuik Gumtang.” But our server, chef/owner Yon Sun Taylor’s personable daughter-in-law, says the real name is in the window: Han, a hard-to-explain “Korean cultural trait” related to grief. We’re told Taylor cooks from scratch in the same style she cooks at home, which proves quite American-palate-friendly, considering a TV in the dining room blares Korean shows sans subtitles. Rice cake soup ($9.99) tastes similar to other town versions but these starch coins feel more soggy, less snappy, and the cloudy chicken broth needs salt and pepper to pop, bolstered by scallions, fried egg and stringy pot-roast-like beef. Spicy fish squid ($14.99) with side rice builds in heat, garnished with chili oil and green onions. I’ve had both softer and tougher squid, so Han gives us no grief, but it’s bested elsewhere locally.