In reviewing burgers, I always keep price in mind, and, dollar for dollar, Green Line Grill
’s on par with Five Guys. Both charge around $6 for a cheeseburger or over $8 for two patties. Both offer huge orders of excellent french fries — Green Line charges $2 for a sizable third of a basket. But a burger with grilled onions is not an onion fried burger, the El Paso, Oklahoma, style Green Line owner Bobby Couch makes. By cooking the onions into the patty, the flavors mingle more, creating savory magic.
On this visit, I try the signature Otis ($8.50), a burger with one onion fried patty and one veggie patty, named for bartender Otis Mitchem
, formerly of the adjacent Zodiac Venue and Bar
, now at Bar K
. The beef and onions relieve the veggie patty of meaty expectations, letting its spices shine on their own for a neat mix of textures and flavors. I’ve never had a Green Line burger land shy of excellent, and this one’s no exception.