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Grand Gyros has been doing this for decades

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A classic gyro value meal. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • A classic gyro value meal.
Grand Gyros is approaching two decades in business, and those years show in both positive and negative ways. For instance, the strip mall facility feels beyond dated, with peeling wallpaper and big cobwebs in the bathroom just one sign. There’s a certain casualness to swift service that conveys “we’ve been doing this forever.” With that comes affordable, serviceable food that lacks a gourmet edge.

For example, on my combo plate ($8.99), pita wedges are dense and tough, not pillowy; rice gains a yellow hue but no seasoning; Grecian Delight gyro meat’s a bit dry; and I quickly regret not ordering extra tzatziki (40 cents) to supplement the spare amount given. Points for ample feta crumble and juicy chicken, at least. Similarly, on a gyro value meal ($7.29 includes fries and a drink), the shaved lamb-beef strips are under-sauced and dry (40 cents for commercial chili-garlic hot sauce helps), but it’s decent enough with crisp, airy fries bearing heavy seasoned salt garnish. Baklava ($2.09) falls apart under a first forking with dry upper phyllo layers, but it delivers lots of chopped pecans and sticky honey under layers, with huge cinnamon essence.

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