It’s been a few years since we’ve been to the continuously self-reinventing Good Company, formerly a shoo-in for some of the best karaoke in town and a highlight of the north end. On a quiet afternoon, during a lunch stop, it has the party bar vibe, with ‘80s music pumping from the speakers. I’m tempted by the breakfast menu, served until 2 p.m., but I’m told the cheesesteak ($9.99) is perhaps the most popular item on the menu. I go for that, dropping another $1.50 for jalapeño tots.
It’s not so much chopped steak as slightly dry roast beef, made juicy with not-overcooked onions and peppers. The size feels reasonable, and it does well with a pint of Guinness ($6.50). Those jalapeño tots, fried from frozen, aren’t bad, pucks of fine-diced potato, cheese and de-seeded, de-veined jalapeño, coated. It’s gooey but not insipid, with a little tooth from the peppers, served with a plastic cup of ranch. It’s fine bar grub, but I’m left wondering about breakfast.