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Gold Star Pies is a full body experience

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Gold Star's apricot honey pie. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Gold Star's apricot honey pie.
I won’t pretend I haven’t started hearing Mary Berry’s grandmotherly voice in my head every time I review baked goods (thanks, Netflix). When I order two pieces Gold Star Pies' (goldstarpies.com) offerings ($5/slice) neither has a soggy bottom. The crusts are crisp and flaky, neither too dense nor weak and crumbly. I even reject dollar-extra scoops of Blue Bunny vanilla bean ice cream and complimentary whipped cream so I can tell properly.

Briggs fills her pies well too. The apricot honey pie encases bright pieces of apricot slightly mellowed by added apple in that lovely crust and a delicate crumb topping. Perfumed by cardamom and anchored with cinnamon and vanilla, it makes each bite sing. My colleagues prefer the crisp caramelization and whiskey-darkened depth of the bourbon pecan pie. Quoth one: “I didn’t expect it to be that good. My whole body stopped.” Short of Berry herself calling it “scrummy,” that’ll do for an endorsement.

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