- Griffin Swartzell
Joey’s, under new ownership since 2017, has opened its second location, expanding into a former Borriello Brothers location. It’s one of three such spots that shut down in early 2019. But that’s neither here nor there, and we begin with a clean slate and an order of the Long Island clam digger pizza that taunted us when we last visited Joey’s at 1843 Briargate Blvd.
It starts with sound pizza crust that boasts big interior bubbles with a crisp exterior, which tells us it’s been raised properly. Atop that, a garlicky red sauce makes good friends with Parmesan cheese, provolone, fresh basil, bacon, and clams that come from a can. When it’s $19 for a 14-inch pizza, canned ain’t ideal, but the clams’ faint brine goes well with the bacon for a deliberate, well-considered bite of ‘za. We also nab half a dozen garlic knots, served hot with cold red sauce. They’re chewy and dense with lots of garlic and Parmesan all over, but the coating doesn’t cling well. Still, the flavor’s on point.