- Matthew Schniper
- Month-old Go Fish offers only four items on its menu. Shrimp or wild-caught Pacific cod tacos, a shrimp poboy and fish ‘n chips.
Go Fish Food Truck
Talk about focus: Month-old Go Fish offers only four items on its menu. Shrimp or wild-caught Pacific cod tacos, a shrimp poboy and fish ‘n chips. Owner Kevin Hill, who cites 20-plus years across the food service industry, from corporate cooking and management to bartending and front-house work, says he set his eye on speed and freshness for this simple concept, where redundant ingredients ensure relative ease of prep and execution. We sample each item, and quickly elevate the poboy and fish ‘n chips as standouts, and well-worth seeking out. The tacos, on flour tortillas unless corn are requested, fare just OK under a pico rich with avocado, and slaw that could be brighter with its advertised citrus element.
The Old Bay-seasoned cod’s cooked a little firm for my tastes and only pops with the house tartar sauce, which zings with pickle acidity. The shrimp alone are beautiful, with a crisp breading and good gooey core, but on the poboy they truly shine under a spicy Cajun sauce that really bites the tongue. The French Kitchen supplies a substantial baguette that picks up a nice buttered toast flavor from the flat-top, and garlic aioli and fresh lettuce and tomato complete the excellent, filling sandwich. Though the hand-cut french fries could use more crisping, the fried cod on the fish ‘n chips rates stellar — the best in recent memory.
When Hill’s not using a local brewery’s beer to batter (usually a light brew from wherever he’s parked that day), Modelo Especial’s the go-to brew. Each soft fish stick wears a thick but tempura-fluffy jacket that’s perfectly blond with a blush of brown (i.e., fried just right and not oil-logged), and bears a notable citrus finish — dipped in the tartar sauce it’s all pure joy.