- Griffin Swartzell
This chain opened its first standalone in Fort Collins in 2011, specializing in late-night eating. Open until 3 a.m., this location and its other on Hartsel Drive serve a purpose. Quoth my friend: “For when you want your arteries to remember you have the power to wreck them, for when you need to eat a week’s worth of feelings in one sitting, for when you’re so intoxicated you’ve been staring at your stove for 15 minutes, Fat Shack is there.”
We skip past the cheesesteaks, wings and deep-fried desserts for a Fat Doobie, a signature “fat sandwich.” An East Coast-style roll comes wrapped around chicken fingers, french fries, onion rings and mozzarella sticks, dressed with honey mustard. When we get a bite of just chicken or onion, those bear good flavor and texture, but mostly we taste honey mustard and fried batter.
More restrained, a single burger with battered fries does fine, fast food flavors with a touch more refinement, though we’re not in love with the oily sheen atop the pretzel-dark brioche bun. But we went sober, at lunch, and if you can get here without help from a designated driver, you’re doing it wrong.