I’m remiss in my duties for never having been to El Super Taco
, as it’s 18 years old, one of a handful of locations between Colorado and New Mexico, says an employee. It could pass as a bigger chain, but digging in, it lands more like a regional landmark, culturally homey and full of flavor. The menu’s rife with affordable Tex-Mex; I randomly choose the super adobada burrito ($7.80). The “super” is no fallacy — it’s jammed with chewy char-flavored pork, restrained rice, and mashed pintos moistened by melted cheese and modest portions of guacamole, pico and sour cream (i.e., bites don’t force liquid in your lap). A highlight is its thin, rice-paper-like flour tortilla style, seared with little brown blisters, gifting toastiness to the overall taste. I’m surprised I finish it in one sitting, pouring piquant house red and green salsas on it between bites. A super refreshing cucumber-lime agua fresca ($2.19/small) drinks sweet, light on citrus sourness, with clean cucumber flavor that mitigates the hot sauces’ heat.