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El Rey Del Taco Express proves birria is beautiful

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MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
Birria is a traditional Jalisco Mexican stew, typically made with goat, but beef versions are now common. El Rey Del Taco Express (there’s the original spot and a #2, both on the Academy Boulevard corridor) braises beef tips in a broth of onions and adobo seasoning (including oregano, garlic and tenderizing vinegar). The resulting birria ($9.99) is an irresistible, super-tender meat, fabulously loaded onto corn tortillas with cilantro, onions and a killer habanero sauce that oddly and enjoyably tastes like beer at first. A plate includes wet Mexican rice and decent beans, and the portion’s nice for the price; earthy chili flavors linger on the palate like euphoria. But all spells must be broken, and a house choco flan ($4) sits ready for the task, a dense, spongy, wet-with-caramel-sauce chocolate cake wedge topped with an almost perfectly textured flan. I’m not even a cake guy, but the added sauce and flan buffer and accent it fine, winning me over to the combo. 
Location Details El Rey Del Taco Express
675 S. Circle Drive
Airport
Colorado Springs, CO
9 a.m. to 8 p.m., daily; until 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Mexican/Tex-Mex/Southwestern

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