is a traditional Jalisco Mexican stew, typically made with goat, but beef versions are now common. El Rey Del Taco Express (there’s the original spot and a #2, both on the Academy Boulevard corridor) braises beef tips in a broth of onions and adobo seasoning (including oregano, garlic and tenderizing vinegar). The resulting birria
($9.99) is an irresistible, super-tender meat, fabulously loaded onto corn tortillas with cilantro, onions and a killer habanero sauce that oddly and enjoyably tastes like beer at first. A plate includes wet Mexican rice and decent beans, and the portion’s nice for the price; earthy chili flavors linger on the palate like euphoria. But all spells must be broken, and a house choco flan ($4) sits ready for the task, a dense, spongy, wet-with-caramel-sauce chocolate cake wedge topped with an almost perfectly textured flan. I’m not even a cake guy, but the added sauce and flan buffer and accent it fine, winning me over to the combo.