- Griffin Swartzell
- Tofu with garlic sauce at Dragon Gate.
The irregular fried tofu strips are fine, and the mushroom strip-riddled sugar-soy wok sauce tastes like countless other plates I’ve eaten since childhood. But the zucchini and bell pepper prove a significant surprise. They’re only lightly cooked, fresh and still lively, a departure from many similar dishes where the veg gets cooked to oblivion. Don’t be fooled by the derelict blue building. Dragon Gate’s kitchen is alive and kicking.