- Griffin Swartzell
Looking at the three-location burger spot’s menu, it would be easy to write it off as a novelty joint catering to the social media crowd and trying to garner clicks with wacky offerings like a peanut butter-bacon-jalapeño burger. That’s what we expect when our Dim Sum Daffy burger arrives at the table with a ball of tempura cream cheese and sauces skewered atop the lean duck patty. But this isn’t a meme-wich. What we get instead is a balanced sandwich in which every bite travels from the sweet-sour of hoisin sauce through creamy richness, finishing dark and savory with a gingery brightness. There’s brains behind the boldness. It’s just as clear in the killer umami fries we get on the side, a tangle of sweet potato fries dressed in teriyaki, dynamite sauce (a spicy mayo mixture popular in sushi restaurants), Parmesan and green onions, sweet and sour over a powerfully savory flavor. We also love the sweet-heat 2.OHHH burger, a blend of spicy, smoky and savory notes with a dark, fruity sweetness from candied bacon and sour cherry onion jam.